Thunder Tiger GP 42 Nitro Engine Stalls

by Lewis
(Reading uk)

I have a Thunder Tiger GP 42 engine. I am in the break in procedure but I can't get it to run smoothly.

It keeps stalling especially when trying to get it to idle

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Thunder Tiger GP 42 Nitro Engine Stalls

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Mar 08, 2010
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What type fuel to use?
by: Anonymous

what is the BEST glow fuel to use for the Tiger?

Mar 08, 2010
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Air bleed carby
by: Michael from Oz

G'day

Your GP 42 is a plain bearing (bushed not ball bearing) engine with an air bleed carby. So for a start, you don't have a low speed needle to adjust, you have an air bleed to adjust for idling and it works in reverse to a twin needle carby. With the air bleed, as you screw the screw out, you lean the mixture not the reverse as with a double needle carby.

Also, any engine will not idle initially until it has run in a bit. Most of my engines take at least half an hour running to an hour running to be able to start idling well.

And, as your engine has a bronze bush and not ball bearings, it will thank you if you use some castor oil in your fuel.

So, initially, expect the idle to be a bit rough. The default setting for most air bleed carbys is to have the air bleed set at the half way point, ie have the screw half covering the air bleed hole.

I suggest you run the engine slightly rich - ie turn it from a definitely rich setting at full throttle until it starts to two stroke cleanly and stop there and fly it like this. You can gradually lean it to full power over the next half an hour but always run it slightly rich from full power. At this point it should be idling ok but you can then fine adjust the air bleed - close it to make the mixture richer and open it to make it leaner a little bit at a time.

If it is too rich, it will tend to load up, start to splutter and then die. If you open the throttle while it is too rich it will splutter but it will then rev up. If it is too lean, it will tend to die when you try to rev it.

Have fun

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Mar 08, 2010
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Submitted by: Michael from Oz

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G'day Your GP 42 is a plain bearing (bushed not ball bearing) engine with an air bleed carby. So for a start, you don't have a low speed needle to adjust, you have an air bleed to adjust for idling and it works in reverse to a twin needle carby. With the air bleed, as you screw the screw out, you lean the mixture not the reverse as with a double needle carby. Also, any engine will not idle initially until it has run in a bit. Most of my engines take at least half an hour running to an hour running to be able to start idling well. And, as your engine has a bronze bush and not ball bearings, it will thank you if you use some castor oil in your fuel. So, initially, expect the idle to be a bit rough. The default setting for most air bleed carbys is to have the air bleed set at the half way point, ie have the screw half covering the air bleed hole. I suggest you run the engine slightly rich - ie turn it from a definitely rich setting at full throttle until it starts to two stroke cleanly and stop there and fly it like this. You can gradually lean it to full power over the next half an hour but always run it slightly rich from full power. At this point it should be idling ok but you can then fine adjust the air bleed - close it to make the mixture richer and open it to make it leaner a little bit at a time. If it is too rich, it will tend to load up, start to splutter and then die. If you open the throttle while it is too rich it will splutter but it will then rev up. If it is too lean, it will tend to die when you try to rev it. Have fun

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Mar 07, 2010
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Low Speed Valve
by: Rocky

Try setting your low speed needle valve, it is important for idle, and it is also important for a smooth transition of power.